Selecting a crate

We recommend that all pet-owners choose a carrying crate that allows the dog to have access to the most mobility. It is important for the dog to be able to turn around and stand up. The crate should also have a top that is easily removed. Provision the crate with comfortable, washable bedding preferred by the dog. Some dogs will prefer a cushion or towel as a resting site while other dogs prefer an object of clothing (such as a t-shirt) worn by a specific person. Place the crate on an elevated resting site favored by the dog when recumbent. This location should be out of reach of cats and small children in the home. Please ensure that the crate is fastened to a stable area or secure enough where it will not move or fall. First attempt to make the crate available to your dog with the crate door open to establish a feeling of comfort for your dog. If the dog does not readily use the crate at first, remove the top. Later, when the dog is consistently using the lower portion of the crate, add the top section, leaving everything else the same. If the dog avoids use of the crate (which may be the case if the dog had a prior negative experience in that crate), consider another type of carrier, such as a soft-sided model.

A crate is a place to confine a dog. Whether that’s a good thing or a bad thing depends on how you’re using it. Confinement can be a very effective management tool in a larger training plan. Crating is often the easiest way to prevent reinforcement for unwanted behavior while you’re shaping up all the acceptable alternatives: A puppy in a crate can’t be peeing on your floor or chewing up your couch, and an untrained adult dog can’t be bowling over visitors or surfing the counters as you cook. A secured crate is one of the safest ways to transport a dog in a car. A dog who can relax in a crate has more options in life—they can participate more easily in dog sporting events or workshops, will be more welcome in unfamiliar homes and hotels, and may feel more comfortable staying at the vet, groomer, or kennel.

But over confinement can contribute to a host of problems, including hyperactivity and (not surprisingly) anxiety about the prospect of being confined. Dogs with pre-existing separation anxiety often panic more with the crate. What constitutes over confinement is up to the dog to some extent, but as a general rule, I don’t advocate crating without a significant and enriching break for more than four hours at a time.

And whatever you may have heard or read about dogs being “den animals”—a common contention that there is little evidence to support—most dogs will need to be taught to enjoy being crated for even that long.

You may have noticed that I don’t often offer explicit training “recipes” in this column. That’s because successful training is in large part about how you set and adjust your criteria—the training steps should be calibrated to the individual dog. But here are some guidelines and techniques that have worked well in my experience.

Where to put the crate

Most dogs like to be around their people, so right off the bat, a crate in a well-trafficked area will probably be more appealing to the dog than one that’s isolated. For new puppies, who are often confined overnight to help with housetraining, you might want two crates: one in the main living area and one in your bedroom.

Meals in the crate

For most dogs, any place dinner is served can’t be all bad. Feed your dog in the crate, with the door open initially. Consider feeding out of a Kong or puzzle toy to extend the time spent in the crate and provide the opportunity to forage, a natural behavior considered enriching for dogs. To increase a new dog or puppy’s comfort with being in the crate alone, you can begin to step away a little as he is engaged in eating. Come back while they’re still chowing down.

Introduce fun activities

Many crate-training tutorials advocate leaving the crate open all the time so that the dog can explore it freely. Problem is, unless the crate has been rigged (say, with extra comfy bedding studded with hidden treats) to be much more appealing than all the other locations where a dog can relax, many won’t seek it out in favor of the couch, a dog bed, or even just the floor.

So we can use a bit of reverse psychology. The crate is full of tantalizing goodies, but the dog can’t just walk in and get them. He actually has to “ask” to be let in.

• Generously sprinkle kibble or treats into the closed crate.
• Let the dog sniff and paw at the crate. When they come around to the door, open it for them.
• The instant they stick so much as a nose inside, say “yes” (or click, if you’re using a clicker) and then start a party, rapidly dropping more treats through openings at the sides and back of the crate for 15-30 seconds.
• As the dog is finishing up, place one more treat outside the crate. When the dog comes out to get it, wait quietly.
• With not much happening outside the crate, many dogs will reinvestigate, if not outright walk back into, the crate. The instant the dog sticks their nose past the doorway, start the party again. The food is now becoming contingent on moving into the crate.
• If the dog doesn’t investigate the crate at all, repeat the first steps until they begin to do so.
• Close the door between sessions.

Developing behavior

When the dog is reliably heading back into the crate without bait, you can begin to wait for more than a nose in before starting the party. I usually use a clicker for precision in letting the dog know what the current criterion is: initially a paw or two, then all four paws, then all four paws for a few seconds, then turning around in the crate, then sitting or lying down.

At this point, you can switch to giving the dog a Kong or puzzle toy to work on independently. Unless your dog is a puzzle master, it should be easy for them to get food out of the toy at first—the main goal here is that they still gets lots of reinforcement, just not from you. The toy can even be tied to the inside of the crate so that it can only be enjoyed by staying put.

From here, you can add steps like closing the door briefly, closing the door for longer, moving away, leaving the room, and leaving the house. These are stages where it’s especially important to watch an individual dog’s responses and adjust your plan accordingly. A qualified trainer can help you set criteria and troubleshoot as needed.

You can also add a cue at this stage if you like—though opening the crate door has already become one. And in the meantime, don’t forget to teach your dog what you want them to do when they’re not confined. The more effort you devote to that, the less you’ll need to rely on the crate.